Central Asia became my desired travel destination due to its hiking trails, expansive landscapes, and pristine nature. I had long been captivated by the imagery of wild horses running freely across vast open spaces and serene high mountain lakes.
Instead of being just another typical blog detailing my itinerary and activities, I aim to provide not only practical advice and a breakdown of my expenses (available at the bottom of each page for those interested) but also to share my experiences and reflections from the journey, hoping to inspire you along the way.
ALMATY
When I take a taxi from the airport to the hotel, it is usually the moment when I first experience the thrill of being in a new country. Seeing new symbols and hearing a language I don't understand brings out the childlike curiosity in me. I had a friendly chat with the driver, and even though I had picked up a few Russian phrases, I still needed a translator. The sight of the vast snow-capped mountains along the way filled me with excitement.
On my first evening, I dined at the renowned Central Asian restaurant, Navat. I tried plov - the well-known Central Asian dish consisting of a blend of rice, vegetables, meat, and spices. It was my first time to taste horse meat, which I found to be rich and flavorful. I later discovered that horse meat is considered one of the healthiest meats due to its low fat content.
The next day, I explored the city - visiting parks and spotting squirrels. I checked some famous historical landmarks and checked the museum. As I wandered through the park, I quietly wished that Manila had fewer shopping malls and more public parks like this one.
Central Park, Russian Orthodox Church, 28 Panfilov Park, Central State Museum
Couchsurfing in Almaty
During my second and third nights, I stayed with a local I had connected with on Couchsurfing. His residence is large and spacious, offering stunning mountain vistas visible through the windows. Upon my arrival, the host led me on a brief hike close to his home to witness the beautiful sunset.
Meeting this host, who is an IT professional, was incredibly helpful. He helped me register my SIM card, introduced me to useful mobile apps that made my travel experience in Kazakhstan easier, and generously let me stay in his room while he slept on the couch.
While having dinner, we had a small chat and I discovered that he bought that house in the area to be more connected with nature. This made me wonder why, despite my love for nature, I still chose to live in the center of Manila instead of relocating to a more natural setting.
The next day, I had planned to hike Big Almaty Lake, but my host suggested an alternative trek - Polyana Terra, which he claimed offers a more pleasant experience and stunning views. I had not encountered this on my Google searches, highlighting why I appreciate Couchsurfing so much!
POLYANA TERRA
I struggled to locate the trail's beginning, needing to inquire with multiple individuals who provided conflicting directions. After getting out of the wrong taxi, a kind driver gave me a free ride when he saw me on the road again. This was my first time hitchhiking!
While walking, I was lucky enough to meet another female hiker who had previously visited Terra. She informed me that the path to Polyana Terra would lead us to the same hot springs she was on her way to.
During my solo hikes abroad, I admire older hikers in their 50s and 60s who show remarkable strength and love mountain trekking. I hope to stay as active as them as I get older. Sadly, I see my parents, in their 60s, struggle with fatigue after short walks.
After leaving the hot springs, I had to continue walking alone again. I depended solely on offline maps for guidance, which led me to stray off the trail several times. When I asked a person in the parking lot for directions, they advised me to simply follow the river to avoid getting lost. Perhaps I stayed too close to the river and forgot that there was an actual trail.
The hot springs of Alma Arasan
During the middle stages of the hike, I was walking with a Russian college student who kindly paused for me at challenging parts of the trail. I shared my offline map and kept him informed about our distance to the endpoint.
Sometimes, I paused and expressed my amazement with a "Wow" upon seeing the stunning views of the river and the pine trees. The serene sound of the flowing river was soothing and almost meditative. It was a sensation of reconnecting with nature, where I felt at home.
After reaching my destination on the map, I hesitated to continue in search of a summit. Concerned about the time and darkness approaching, I turned back at 3:00 pm. I later discovered I had missed a scenic pond just a few steps away from where I had stopped, regretting that fear had caused me to miss the best part of the hike.
Following the hike, I managed to make a stop at Ayusai, another nearby park that was worth exploring. If I had known about the short hiking trails there and had more time, I would have explored further.
Maybe I was already feeling fatigued, so I decided to sit down and enjoy some milk cotton candy made while watching the sunset at the President's Park.
Botanical Gardens and Green Bazaar
On my third day, I visited the Botanical Gardens, but I didn't find it particularly captivating. I wish I had allocated more time to explore the Green Bazaar, where I could have sampled more variety of pickled vegetables and milk-based sweets.
I met my second host at the Green Bazaar, where he was waiting for me. As we drove in his car, I couldn't help but feel uneasy due to the chaos and his seemingly busy schedule. There were two other passengers in the car - his landlady and another musician friend.
Couchsurfing with a Russian scientist
My next host is a versatile man with a wide range of talents and hobbies. He likes music, science, videography, tightrope walking, snowboarding, and hiking. He leads a sci-fi-inspired band and manages a trendy underground bar, which serves as his main source of engagement and fulfillment. Before visiting his home, I watched him rehearse with his band and assisted in tidying up and arranging the cave bar.
I enjoyed staying at his charming mountain apartment, which is conveniently located near the Oi-Qaragai Mountain Resort where I spent half a day exploring. The park offers short hiking trails that take you to the river and into the heart of the mountains.
During my visit, we also dined at a local barbecue spot where he introduced me to "shaslik," the Russian equivalent of barbecue. We sampled beef, sheep, and duck meat, with the duck standing out as my favorite due to its tender and flavorful meat.
During my time in Kazakhstan, I discovered Kazakh people's love for tea, which they drink more than water. I had tea time with my host, where we talked about music, his scientific projects, and his unique bar cave project.
He noted that numerous Russians, including himself, relocated to Kazakhstan as a way to express dissatisfaction with their government. He also told me about his aspirations to build a "mind museum" in the future.
Encountering such an intriguing individual is one of the joys of traveling, especially when using platforms like Couchsurfing. Just like destinations, people are also worth discovering.
As they prepared for a weekend festival in the bar cave, I regretted having to leave due to a prior booking with a travel agency. This experience served as a reminder that excessive planning can sometimes hinder the spontaneity and excitement of travel adventures.
KOLSAI & KAINDY LAKE, CHARYN CANYON TOUR
During my final two days in Kazakhstan, I explored the renowned canyons and lakes. Amidst a bus filled with nearly 100 tourists, I found myself seated beside a Korean girl who quickly became my friend for the duration of the two-day excursion. We took each other's photos and shared stories of our respective travel stories.
I seldom leave my home in Manila, so discovering new friendships and connections while traveling is always an unexpected yet delightful aspect of every journey. It was always easy for me to make friends when solo traveling.
Kaindy Lake
Kolsay Lake
Black Canyon
Charyn Canyon - it took us about 3 hours to explore the area
Following the tour, I had enough time that evening to attend a music event in Medeu. I discovered that festivals are happening in Almaty almost every week!
The Tengri Music (contemporary ethnic music) Festival in Almaty
I originally planned to spend only 7 days in Kazakhstan, but I wished I had extended my stay to 14 days. This would have allowed me to travel at a more leisurely pace and further develop the connections I had made.
With the extra time, I could have hiked Big Almaty Lake, enjoyed the Hot Springs, explored Altyn Emel, checked out Medeu, attended Couchsurfing meetups, and enjoyed more music festivals in Almaty.
Check out my Kyrgyzstan adventure in the next post.
TRAVEL TIPS
For my travel planning, I used Wanderlog, which offers fantastic features for optimizing routes to save time and money.
I used Duolingo and YouTube to learn basic Russian phrases, along with familiarizing myself with the Cyrillic alphabet.
2gis is a highly beneficial navigation and public bus route application in Kazakhstan.
Yandex Go is a popular, affordable, and fast taxi-hailing service in Kazakhstan.
For Yandex Go registration, I obtained a local SIM card in Kazakhstan. I recommend Activ SIM since it has an English mobile app, which is necessary for sim registration. Getting a sim in Russian language wasted almost half of my second day!
I acquired an e-SIM for internet data coverage in three countries for 30 days.
My 2-day tour was booked through Gran Voyage. Local travel agencies, like this one, offer tours at nearly half the price of international options and can be easily found on Instagram and WhatsApp. I researched a lot and this was the cheapest I found, though I heard cheaper packages from Panda Travel.
Kazakhstan's bus transport system is both cost-effective and efficient, with easily accessible routes on 2gis and a fixed fare of 100 Tenge for all distances. Payment for bus fares can be made by sending the code displayed on the bus window via SMS to 9909.
When withdrawing Tenge, I used my Gcash Visa ATM card. Optima Bankomat machines are suitable for 6-digit pin codes, while other machines only accept 4-digit pins. There is a withdrawal limit of 2000 Tenge per transaction, but the limit is higher at the airport. Alternatively, USD or Euros can be exchanged for Tenge, as most establishments and restaurants in Kazakhstan accept credit cards.
EXPENSES BREAKDOWN
Transportation (bus and taxi) | P2,356 |
E-sim (20 gig for 30 days). | P1,276 |
Food (meals, snacks, drinks) | P6,440 |
Accommodation (2 hostels) | P1,441 |
Others (toiletries, shopping) | P1,642 |
2-Day tour to the lakes and canyons | P3,674 |
Ticket to Museums | P245 |
TOTAL: P17,074
To reach Polyana Terra, take a car, taxi, or buses #108 and 211 and alight at the Alma-Arasan Resort bus stop on Dulati Ave. A short walk from there will lead you to the parking lot close to the hot springs, with the trail to Polyana Terra continuing past the hot springs.
I spent more than usual on food because I treated myself to meals at two fancy restaurants and tried out different local specialties at the market.
For accommodation, I managed to save money by spending one night each in two different hostels and the remaining nights with Couchsurfing hosts.
FLIGHTS Air Asia had a BIG sale last March 2024, when I was already planning to go to Central Asia. I discovered that it cost me less to book separately than to book one whole connecting flight.
Manila-Kuala Lumpur: P4,400
Kuala Lumpur-Almaty: P10,200
I booked the return flight from Tashkent with IndiGo Airlines, still via the Air Asia website.
Tashkent-New Delhi-Bangkok: P17,000
Bangkok-Manila: P6,800
Check out my Kyrgyzstan adventure in the next post.
Your travels are an inspiration for us normal pinoys wanting to go outside PH. Keep up the good work dear.