Morocco has long been a must-visit destination for me due to its cultural richness and preservation. Despite delaying the trip and concerns about safety from stories of scams and harassment, I believe any country can be safe with common sense and intuition. Unpleasant experiences are possible anywhere, not just in Morocco.
My reasons for traveling have somehow changed - to challenge misconceptions about this country. I was still cautious, so I packed a fake wedding ring, an emergency alarm, mini pepper spray (which went unnoticed at airports), and conservative clothing.
I also searched for local hosts in Couchsurfing. Knowing a local host made me feel much more comfortable and secure. I also asked them about safety, and their responses were quite different from what I had read online.
CASABLANCA
The host I met in Casablanca was kind enough to offer me a two-day tour of the city. I was also accompanied by another couchsurfer, a young Chinese traveler exploring the world. We strolled around the city, and our host showed us some local shops, markets, and famous spots for tea and pastry. I wanted to linger longer in some places, but since I was with them, I had to keep up the pace. These were the moments when I wished I had explored alone, but I was too afraid to do so.
The most photographed house in Casablanca and a classic carpet shop.
Trying out some Moroccan pastries and mint tea
I find Casablanca somewhat dull or quite similar to Manila but with a cooler climate. I believe one day is sufficient to explore the city. You won't miss much if you decide to skip it.
Apart from the impressive Hassan II Mosque, I was intrigued by the black market, where we encountered a vibrant community of African migrants. We also visited the Moroccan Science Museum, where I saw actual meteorites recovered from the deserts of Morocco.
We walked from afternoon until evening and ended up too exhausted. Fortunately, our host had prepared the famous Moroccan soup called Harira before we went to bed.
MARRAKESH
My next Couchsurfing host welcomed me at the train station when I arrived in Marrakesh. His home was located quite far from the city center, which he explained was because most locals choose not to live near the city center dsince there are already a lot of tourists there.
As we made our way to the house, I immediately noticed a unique vibe in this city. It seemed more rustic, bustling, and lively compared to the serene and quiet atmosphere of Casablanca.
My host, who is also a tour guide, provided several suggestions for my trip to Morocco. With great enthusiasm, he demonstrated how to make the renowned Moroccan dish, Tajine. He also explained why Moroccans pour their tea from a height, noting that this creates bubbles and introduces "oxygen" into the tea.
A homemade Tajine and traditional method of pouring Moroccan tea
In the afternoon, we went to Jemaa el-Fnaa, the famous square in Marrakesh.The square buzzed with lively chaos and a variety of distinctive sounds: cobras dancing, fascinating games, vendors offering exotic teas, small musical groups, and diverse food stalls where I noticed a blend of locals and European tourists. It was funny because the vendors frequently called me Thai, Japanese, or Chinese.
Once I took a picture of a dancing cobra, and the flute player asked me to pay 20 dirhams. My host laughed and said, "Here, every move you make has a price."
I was interested in trying some seafood, but my host cautioned me, "Only consume seafood close to the sea unless you're prepared to risk an upset stomach!"
Left: Locals come together to engage in an unusual game of trying to fish for bottles; Right: This photo cost me 20 dirhams! However, the cobra snake didn't actually dance.
My host proposed that I should experience life like a local, so we didn't spend much time in the tourist-filled square. I also guess I would encounter another scam had I stayed longer there. Instead, we watched football in a bar where locals enjoyed shisha and Moroccan tea as they watched on a big screen. It was a unique experience, something I hadn't planned in my itinerary.
The following day, I relocated to a hostel since it was closer to the old city (also referred to as medina). I encountered some difficulty finding the hostel because it was tucked away in a narrow alley, so a young girl offered to lead me. After we arrived at the hostel, she asked money from me.
Even though I knew about potential scams, I sometimes trusted too easily and didn't question these kids. I could simply walk away and refuse to give money, but occasionally it's acceptable to offer a small amount as a gesture for their help.
I met another friendly local through the Couchsrufing app, who gladly accompanied me on a walk around the shops and markets of Marrakesh. Aside from feeling safer, having a local with me made the exploration more engaging and memorable than venturing alone.
The colors, flavours, and scents of Morocco
Exploring the Madrasa Ben Youssef
Some of my favorite Moroccan snacks: Bird's nest baklava, Msemmen, Bastilla
ESSAOUIRA
I found out in my research that extra caution was needed only when visiting large cities like Casablanca and Marrakesh. Therefore, in my next destination, Essaouira, I felt more at ease and was comfortable exploring on my own. It was also mentioned that the locals here are friendlier and there aren't as many scammers as in the big cities.
When I arrived, it was hot, and the temperature was warmer than in the previous cities I had visited. The beach was visible as soon as I got off the bus, and I immediately sensed a relaxed and laid-back atmosphere. Essaouira is a small city that can be easily explored in a day, yet there seems to be a lot happening in this small coastal town.
Despite its seafood production and closeness to the Atlantic, the town is free from a fishy odor, thanks to the many birds and cats. The bustling seafood market by the port provides the freshest and most budget-friendly seafood. The locals are artists engaged in music, painting, and culinary arts.
A seagull and the busy fish port of Essaouira
This is likely some of the best and freshest seafood I've ever tasted! I spent a total of 140 dirhams on these two dishes!
My Couchsurfing host is a chef who offers cooking classes. I observed a professional chef prepare Tajine, which can be made with fish, beef, or seafood, along with plenty of vegetables and spices. As a gesture of gratitude for staying at his home, which has a dedicated room for couchsurfers, I helped with washing of the dishes.
I planned to leave for Marrakesh the next day but decided to extend my stay. While waiting for my bus on the beach, I met a local who was too friendly that I found myself discussing with him about his music, work, some tips for my Sahara trip. He said he will play in a bar that night so he invited me to watch and also to try his mother's octopus Tajine. Another traveler by the beach assured me he is trustworthy.
While walking through the medina, he showed me shops and introduced me to many of his friends who are either musicians or shop owners. We visited his home, where I met his family, and they lent me a Muslim dress since I needed a new set of clothes. They even offered me to stay overnight. Everyone seemed kind until he asked for money!
I thought the octopus Tajine was a kind gesture, but it was an expensive dish from his mother's restaurant. I refused to give him 10 euros when I decided not to stay at their home, which angered him. We almost argued, but I managed to walk away. I should have been more cautious, as I nearly became a victim, though I left unharmed.
Despite this annoying incident, I didn't let it ruin my overall experience. This guy gave me an interesting tour after all. I gained a good insight into the local culture, and I met a lot of locals.
The next day, I didn't want to remain any longer as I was recovering from the betrayal I had experienced. I returned to Marrakesh to resume my tour.
SAHARA DESERT TRIP
Before my trip, I found Sahara Desert group tours online too expensive. Following advice from previous Couchsurfing hosts, I organized a more affordable tour through my hostel in Marrakesh.
The car journey through the Sahara took nearly 8 hours, with the tour featuring multiple stops. Traveling made up at least half of the tour, offering a wonderful opportunity to chat with other travelers. I valued the tour in the local villages, where we were introduced to the crops and way of life of the Berber community. While taking photos, we were consistently reminded not to photograph the locals, as they are sensitive to this.
Ait Benhaddou, renowned as a filming location for movies and series like Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, and Game of Thrones, etc.
Exploring a Berber village and discovering their agricultural practices and native crops.
A brief photo opportunity at Todra Gorge
The whole trip was comfortable and well-organized. My only issue was the frequent stops along the route. I suspected the driver had an agreement with certain shop owners, leading us to stop and visit their stores during the trip.
We visited a shop selling expensive argan oil and products. I bought a desert scarf for 30 dirham after negotiating down from 50, only to find it for 10 dirham elsewhere. We also visited a local house to see carpet-making and faced a sales pitch for their handmade carpets. The two restaurants we stopped for lunch were pricier, likely due to catering to tourists and one being in the middle of the desert.
I think it's fair to assume that locals are just making a living, and tourists will always be the main clients for these kinds of tours. I don't see them in a negative light as long as they aren't overpricing us. As always, you have the option to decline and leave.
By around five o'çlock of the second day, we arrived at the Erg Chebbi sand unes, which I discovered is merely a section of the vast Sahara Desert in Africa. We rode camels for about 1.5 hours to reach our desert camp in Merzouga, while admiring the stunning sunset shadows cast on the sand dunes.
If you're not used to it, riding camels can cause back pain. Some travelers felt sympathy for the struggling camels and opted to walk instead. On our way back, I tried walking too, but sadly, I could only make it halfway since my feet started hurting and I found it difficult to walk on sand!
Morocco is well-known for its Sahara desert tours. A fellow traveler I encountered during the tour mentioned that it was the highlight of his visit to Morocco. It's easy to romanticize this destination after seeing the stunning orange sand hues, but my memories of the experience mainly involve the sounds of crying camels and trying to maintain my balance while riding one. The colors were indeed beautiful, yet I wish to have a more authentic experience and see how people live in the desert.
FES
From Merzouga, you can either go back to Marrakesh or continue your journey to Fes. I arranged for a carpool service to visit Fes, another city in Morocco that is recommended in itineraries I've found online. It was another lengthy journey, lasting about 8 hours.
I reserved a hostel, which gave me another challenge in terms of directions. The alleys had high walls and confusing turns, resembling a maze. I later discovered that Google Maps doesn’t work here. Once again, I encountered some locals offering to help me with directions, but I believe I had learned my lesson and was a bit more cautious about whom I spoke to. It''s good that I had the hostel's contact number, and they assisted me in finding it.
After the lengthy journey, all I desired was to relax until the next day. I explored another medina, feeling like I had seen enough of them. I looked for the renowned Chouara Tannery and other notable sights in the city. As usual, I expected some locals may offer tours or provide directions, and later ask for payment.
I looked for other popular attractions and discovered the Marinid Tombs' panoramic view. I hired a motorcycle driver, and we settled on a reasonable price for the round trip. He was pleasant, and surprisingly, he didn't overcharge me, so I tipped him for his kindness. This restored my trust in Moroccan people. Not everyone here will attempt to deceive you.
The atmosphere of Fes didn't captivate me much. Perhaps the city felt too large, and I lacked the energy to explore it further. I might have seen more medinas, mosques, and madrasas, but they didn't really interest me at that moment. I originally intended to spend three days in Fes, but by the next day, I had already decided to move on to Chefchaouen.
CHEFCHAOUEN
Chefchaouen quickly became one of my favorite cities in Morocco, alongside Essaouira. I discovered my preference for smaller towns due to their walkability and unique charm, where locals form a close-knit community.
After a 3-hour bus ride from Fes, the city's blue hues instantly captivated me as I explored while waiting for my host. Google Maps was unreliable, but some kids helped with directions, and I thanked them with two dirham coins each.
My host lived in a prime spot with a beautiful view, offered me a private room, introduced me to Moroccan desserts, and gave directions to Akchour for a nearby hike. He was curious about the Philippines, so I shared stories and photos.
I was glad to have moved here earlier to explore this vibrant city. I thought I wouldn't be misled like in other cities, but a local who offered to take my photos later asked for payment. Since the photos were excellent and he showed me the secret IG-worthy spots, I didn't mind paying, though it was less than what he initially requested.
I told all these locals I encountered that if they genuinely wanted to help tourists and avoid being labeled as scammers, they should disclose the cost upfront instead of asking for it later. What travelers perceived as hospitality and sincere help turns into a business opportunity, which tarnishes their image to travelers.
The charming street corners of Chefchaouen, the blue city.
AKCHOUR
The next day, as I had originally planned, I went on a day hike to Akchour, which was a short day hike recommended by my host.
I was really looking forward to this hike as a refreshing escape from the bustling medinas of Morocco. After about an hour and a half of trekking, during which I navigated the path and sought directions from fellow hikers, I reached a rock formation called God's Bridge.
Since it was still early and I had extra time, I decided to search for the waterfalls. Like the other hikers, I got lost because there were no clear signs on the trail. While looking for the falls, I encountered a family of three who were also lost and trying to find their way.
The trail to the falls starts at the same point, but you need to turn left. This trail was flatter and easier than the first one. As I talked with the family and heard about their journey by boat, we passed several mini-waterfalls that resembled man-made pools. I imagined these would look much better during the rainy season when there's more water.
TANGIER
The final stop on my journey was Tangier, located at the Strait of Gibraltar, where Europe meets Africa. It's famous as a cultural and religious melting pot. Many travelers had shared stories of their love for the city, often naming it their favorite in Morocco. However, my first day's experience differed from theirs. I already knew that I preferred smaller cities, as large, modern ones don't captivate me as much.
Tangier is home to many bars and cafes, with its vast coastline running parallel to lively streets. During my day and a half in the city, I explored the Borj Dar al-Baroud Ruins and visited some tapas bars, bakeries, and restaurants. One interesting aspect of the bars here is that they offer generous side dishes (tapas) with a drink order, enough to satisfy your hunger and make you forget about having dinner.
Trying some pastries and meat skewers in Tangier
I went on a one-hour city bus tour that explored Tangier, offering historical insights about the city. To be honest, this activity wasn't particularly interesting for me. It's something I might consider doing when I'm 60 and can't walk as much anymore.
FINAL WORDS
Is Morocco safe? I think it is, despite the possibility of some minor annoyances.
It's wise to stay cautious and be wary of individuals who appear overly friendly and helpful. Be careful not to trust too easily, and remember that you can always walk away if you feel uncomfortable. Thankfully, I did not have to use the safety paraphernalia I brought with me.
Familiarizing yourself with a few locals before your trip can be beneficial and enrich your experience by making you more culturally aware.
Ultimately, don't let fear and online information prevent you from traveling. If we were always afraid, we'd never leave our homes :)
This experience motivated me to be more deliberate with my future travel plans. Just because another traveler recommends a destination doesn't mean it has to be on your list. We all have unique travel preferences. You can always create your own travel itinerary or adjust it as you see fit.
EXPENSES and OTHER NOTES
Visa: Moroco is visa free for Filipinos! I also did not need to apply for transit visas but be sure to check the policies depending on which country you will have your layover.
The Flight:
Two weeks prior to leaving, I discovered the lowest airfare with Saudia Airlines, but it might have been less expensive if I had booked sooner. The one-way flight lasted 18 hours, with an additional 2-hour layover in Jeddah.
Total roundtrip airfare: P44,633
Transportation:
The transport system is efficient and you can travel in between major cities by train and in smaller cities, by bus. If you have a lugggae, they usually ask for additional 10 dirhams when taking the bus.
Local shared taxis are accessible, but most drivers speak Arabic/French and may not understand English. Make sure to agree on a fixed fare beforehand or ask for the meter to be used. Typically, a short 10-minute ride costs around 10 dirhams.
InDrive operates in major cities, but drivers tend to be more cautious as they are not fully licensed to operate in Morocco yet.
Total transportation cost: P13,444
Food:
In major cities, there are more choices, with affordable meals priced between 20 and 50 dirhams. In the desert, prices are twice as high, especially for bottled water. A typical meal in the desert is 100 dirhams, and a liter of bottled water costs 30 dirhams.
Total cost of food and snacks: P14,277
Sahara Desert Tour to Merzouga:
The hostel where I stayed, Hostel Marrakech Rouge, offered various affordable group tours from Marrakesh. I booked mys 3-day Sahara tour with them for just 850 dirham. It included our van service, tour guide fees, two overnight accommodations (one at a hotel and one at the desert camp), and two dinner meals. We were also encouraged to tip the tour guides.
Tour cost: P5,922
Accomodation:
I spent just three nights in hostels, opting instead to use Couchsurfing to connect with and stay with hosts. This is a great way to save money while traveling, but it's considerate to offer something in return—perhaps by helping around the house, restocking their toiletries, or bringing souvenirs from your home country.
Safety Tip with Hosts: Carefully review the profile and references. Engage in a few conversations before meeting your host to assess safety and trustworthiness. Have an exit plan in case you feel uncomfortable.
Total cost of accomodation: P1,363
Other expenses:
Mobile data c/o Mobimatter - P705
Travel insurance c/o AXA Smart Traveller - P1,187
Travel tax - P1,620
Laundry - P876
Entrance to Ben Youssaf Madrasa - P206
Entrance to Morocco Science Museum - P300
Beach chair rental at Essaouira - P300 City bus tour in Tangier - P757
Tourist guide and local tips - P1,466
Toiletries and groceries - P1,452
Budol Scarf :D - P480
Total cost of other expenes: P9,349
Itinerary
Unlike my previous trips, where I adhered to a detailed daily itinerary, this time I simply created a rough outline, giving me greater flexibility.
This was the itinerary I initially planned:
2 days Casablanca
2 days Marakkesh
1 day Essaouira
3 days Sahara Desert
3 days Fes
2 days Chefchaouen
2 days Tangier
This was my actual itinerary:
2 days Casablanca
2 days Marakkesh
2 days Essaouira
1 day Marakkesh
3 days Sahara Desert
1 day Fes
2 days Chefchaouen
2 days Tangier
2 days Essaouira
There are many ways to plan this trip, but if I were to do it again, I would start in Marrakech, skip Casablanca and Tangier, spend more time in the smaller towns, and choose a less touristy desert tour. Other than Erg Chebbi, I had an opportunity to stay in another sand dune called Erg Chigaga which offers a less touristy experience but it requires more time and money.
Items I Packed:
I tried to pack lightly, as I intended to bring only one carry-on backpack.
1 set of sleeping and lounge wear
1 hiking shirt and pants
2 loose cotton pants
3 long sleeve tops
1 jumpsuit
1 fleece jacket
1 down jacket for the desert camps (which I did not need)
1 shawl that can be a blanket or coverup
1 head cap
3 pairs of socks
5 sets of underwear
Later, I realized that I had I packed too lightly, as I needed laundry service about three times throughout the trip. I also forgot to bring a rain jacket, which was essential for hiking and occasional rain showers in the city.
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