After an 8-hour bus journey and crossing the border, I arrived in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Bishkek offers a more traditional and local atmosphere, in stark contrast to Almaty's cosmopolitan and contemporary ambiance. English is rarely spoken, and while some people speak Russian, Kyrgyz is the predominant language.
At the bus station, I found myself stranded for over an hour while searching for a driver to Kyzart. The language barrier led to misunderstandings and delays. Eventually, a local girl from another shared taxi, who can speak some English, came up to me and suggested that I join their taxi, as it would also stop at Kyzart.
The shared taxi journey from Bishkek to Kyzart turned out to be one of the highlights of my trip to Kyrgyzstan. I bonded with nearly everyone in the taxi - we shared laughter and food and we had group photos. The girl who invited me to join their taxi even taught me a few Kyrgyz words.
Traveling brings out a hidden side of me, which I find appealing. I would not typically be as social in the Philippines. A close friend even told me that maybe I should always be traveling.
During the 5-hour taxi ride, I was amazed by the breathtaking scenery of the vast mountains and landscapes we passed. It was then that I fell in love with Kyrgyzstan.
I arrived in Kyzart, bid farewell to my new acquaintances, and was greeted by my local guide, Boke. I was introduced to Boke's family and stayed overnight in their large and pretty house.
Before arriving in Kyrgyzstan, I had been in contact with Boke for months, asking him about the various ways to reach Songkul. I had also spoken to many other guides I found on the internet, but he offered the most reasonable price. It would have been cheaper if there were other travelers with me. However, I secretly enjoyed the idea that I would be the only tourist in the area for two days!
Following dinner, I mingled with the children who showed me their wrestling competition trophies. Boke's sister shared pictures of Song Kul with me, while his mother prepared bread in the kitchen. Boke, who had recently gotten married, proudly presented his wedding photos to me.
SONG-KUL
The journey to Song Kul Lake took three hours. I was captivated by the stunning scenery and had forgotten about the bumpy roads. The picturesque views seemed to call for cinematic orchestral music, but my guide was playing local Kyrgyz pop songs repeatedly.
I was enchanted by the way the clouds cast shadows on the undulating hills, by the delicate yellow flowers that contrasted with the vast green fields, and by the sight of wild horses roaming freely without their owners.
As we were approaching, the lake appeared like a mirror reflecting the sky, creating a moment of pure awe!
Even though I was at Lake Song Kul for just two days and one night, the experience felt much longer. The absence of wifi and mobile signal allowed me to fully immerse myself in the surroundings and admire the beauty of the place.
It felt like discovering a hidden gem since there were no other tourists around. Roaming through the fields, and observing the cattle grazing on the grassland, I felt a sense of freedom. The varying landscapes at different times of the day captivated me.
In the evening, following dinner, I socialized with the local family that accommodated me in their yurts. Upon discovering my Filipino origins (like most people I encountered), their initial reference was to "Manny Pacquiao", the renowned Filipino boxing legend.
They chuckled as I attempted to utter some recently acquired Kyrgyz words. They also introduced me to Kumis - a popular fermented milk beverage in Central Asia.
Even though the night in the mountains was cold, their warmth and hospitality kept me feeling cozy throughout the night.
Despite wanting to stay longer, I left to explore more of Kyrgyzstan and met with my Couchsurfing host in Bishkek.
BISHKEK
The person hosting me seemed to be a friendly and simple guy with a good knowledge of food. His accent resembled that of someone from the Philippines, which made me feel like I had known him for a long time. At that time, he was also hosting another guest, a German hitchhiker who had been traveling the world for over a decade. While we waited for the power outage to be resolved, we exchanged stories about our travels, and our host shared interesting facts about Kyrgyz and Central Asian culture.
My plan for the following day was to hike in Ala Archa National Park, but my body and mood were not up for it. I simply wanted to relax and take it easy. I appreciated the flexibility to deviate from my strict itinerary. Although I am trying to embrace the concept of slow travel, I still struggle with the feeling that not constantly being on the move is a waste of time. Soon the afternoon, I explored the city, visited some parks, and went to the National Museum.
Ala-Too Square, Victory Monument, National Historical Museum of the Kyrgz Republic
I was also offered the chance to go on a weekend trip to Sary Chelek Lake with my host and his friends, all expenses covered. Unfortunately, I had already made plans for that weekend and missed out on another opportunity. It was moments like these when I wished I hadn't been so well-prepared.
KARAKOL
In the organized tour, I met a diverse group of people including a 60-year-old Brazilian man on a sabbatical, a Turkish couple, a Russian couple, a Russian college student, and three local Kyrgyz girls. Although I was eager to make new friends, the language barrier posed a significant challenge as only a few individuals could talk in English. At times, I simply wished to relax and nap in the van. I am an introvert and it shows up when I'm tired.
We had seen a lot in two days. We visited various renowned canyons, gorges, and waterfalls around Karakol. However, my favorite part was our half-day exploration of Barskoon Gorge.
Skazka "Fairy Tale Canyon". In the background is Issyk-Kul Lake.
Jeti Oguz "The Seven Bulls Rock"
"The Maiden's Tears" Waterfall
Barskoon Valley
We stayed overnight in the yurt village, where I had the pleasure of meeting and playing with the adorable Kyrgyz children.
Following the two-day tour, I leisurely spent a couple of days in Karakol. I wandered through the markets, sampled local cuisine, and visited various sights in the vicinity. Despite its modest infrastructure with unpaved roads and aged structures, the city boasts a wealth of historical and cultural significance. Walking along the streets, I couldn't help but feel as though I had been transported a century back in time.
Karakol, a Russian Orthodox Church, Karakol Historical Museum, Stuffed animals inside the museum
I tried some classic dishes commonly enjoyed across Central Asia, like samsa, shawarma, and plov. Yet, the highlight was Beshbarmak, the signature noodle meal with horse meat, which is considered Kyrgyz's national dish.
Before heading back to my hotel, I stopped by the Eco-Tour Center to gather details on a 3-day hike to Alakul Lake that I had been looking into before I visited Central Asia. I organized a taxi to transport me to the trailhead in Karakol Park, secured a yurt booking, and rented a set of trekking poles.
ALA-KUL
The Alakul trek is a popular route in Kyrgyzstan where, despite hiking solo, I often encountered other hikers on the trail. Although I had an offline map saved, I found it more convenient to simply follow the lead of fellow hikers.
During one encounter, an Indian traveler expressed surprise upon learning I was from the Philippines. He mentioned that most Filipinos he knew preferred "comfort travel".
We joked about Europeans, whom he amusingly referred to as "machines" for their fast walking pace and tendency to overtake us. He also noted that they seemed to navigate the trails effortlessly even without a map.
As we trekked, we were treated to the breathtaking sights and sounds of rushing rivers, the lush pine forests, and the majestic snow-capped mountains. From time to time, I would pause to replenish my water bottle with fresh river water while I admire the unfolding beauty of nature around me.
After walking for 6 hours, we finally arrived at the initial campsite, called the Sirota camp. The first day's trek was quite easy, but the rain made the paths muddy, adding weight to our steps.
Upon our arrival, we encountered more hikers. While the Indian hiker was keen on socializing, I preferred to stay beside the lake, taking numerous selfies and enjoying a nap.
The Lake at Sirota Camp. On the other side of that mountain in the middle is Alakul Lake.
We set off early on the second day of our trek, knowing it would be the longest and most challenging day of the trek. The trail began with large rocks, leading to a dry, open area scattered with smaller rocks as we ascended toward the lake. The incline became steeper, causing me to pause several times to catch my breath.
The combination of the scorching sun and the increasing altitude slowed my progress uphill. Throughout this leg of the journey, I found myself mostly alone, frequently passed by European "machines".
After enduring a relentless two-hour assault, I finally laid eyes on one of Kyrgyzstan's most beautiful lakes, a sight previously only seen in photographs. I had built up such anticipation for this moment, and when it arrived, it felt like waking up from a dream.
Another viewpoint, the Alakul Pass, took a 2-hour ascent and was even more difficult than the first. While climbing, I heard a bone crack in my right foot, which only confirmed that I was getting older!
The scorching heat, lack of water supply, and the absence of water sources along the route added to the challenge. When I spotted small ice clusters on the trail, I collected them and refilled my water bottle.
Upon reaching the pass, I paused briefly to rest after the continuous climb. I spent a few moments appreciating the elevated and expansive view of the lake. Although I noticed some hikers, I wasn't feeling sociable. My mind was set on descending and reaching the next campsite.
The Alakul Pass at 3860masl
Before starting the hike, I learned that the trail to Altyn Arashan was blocked by snow. Despite warnings from other hikers, I continued and underestimated the snow's depth.
Had I been alone without any fellow hikers, I wouldn't have had the courage to walk down this path. It was my first time walking on snow so I simply followed the lead of other hikers while descending.
Some hikers were moving sideways slowly, while others slid on their butts, which seemed like the faster approach. I lost control while attempting the technique and slid almost 5-7 meters down the snow!
I hit a damp soil and I was stuck on a steep slope. Fortunately, another hiker appeared and guided me back to safety. Without his help, I could have been injured or worse. In my next hikes, I promise to prioritize safety in uncertain weather, especially when alone.
I continued walking down the snowy trail with extra caution until I arrived at the second campsite. I should never let go of my trek pole if I didn't want to slide again!
Upon reaching the second camp, I found a stretcher that was supposed to be for me. Fellow hikers were relieved to hear I was unharmed. I reassured them I was feeling fine. My thoughts still lingered on how I escaped the incident.
Throughout the day, I was the recipient of numerous acts of kindness, including a generous offer of money from a fellow hiker who noticed that I didn't have enough cash with me. Despite my offer to repay him when I came back to the city, he simply requested that I pay it forward to someone else in need.
After the exhausting hike, all I craved was some solitude and relaxation. I opted for a 1.5-hour horseback ride to Altyn Arashan, the final campsite before heading back to Karakol. Along the route, I spotted some marmots and marveled at the sunset over the mountainous scenery.
Altyn-Arashan
On the third and last day of the trek, I leisurely walked back to Aksuu Valley. I began to experience discomfort in my right leg, possibly from the extended and gradual descent into the snow the day before. This route was a lot easier compared to the first two days.
Upon returning to my hotel in Karakol, I waited for my bus back to Bishkek. During this time, I enjoyed tea with a member of the hotel staff who shared stories about her family. She offered me fresh cherries picked from their backyard and bid me farewell when I departed. She told me that she enjoyed our conversations, even suggesting we stay in touch after I returned to the Philippines.
On my final day in Bishkek, I visited Osh Bazaar where I explored a variety of dried fruits, nuts, tea leaves, biscuits, and dairy products. This was not so different from Almaty's Green Bazaar.
As I boarded the night bus to Tashkent, I wondered and thought about the other places I haven't explored like the Naryn Region, Osh, Sary Chelek, Kel Suu, and many other lakes (Kyrgyzstan has 2,000 lakes!). I could have done another hike but I already felt full and satisfied with the two weeks I spent there.
Check out my Kazakshastan adventure in my previous post.
Check out my Uzbekistan adventure in my next post.
TRAVEL TIPS:
2gis (for navigation and public trasnsport) and YandexGo (taxi service) are useful mobile apps in main cities like Bishkek and Karakol. Shared taxis or marshrutkas are more common when traveling to farther places and between cities. You can also try hitchhiking.
For guided tours in Songkul, contact Boke at +996 708 303 033. He speaks English and you can stay at his house in Kyzart village. He can give you a reasonable price, especially if you can find other travelers to go with you. You can travel by horse or by car.
Kettik is one of the most popular and affordable local travel agencies in Kyrgyzstan. Their guides are friendly and they helped me arrange my transportation after the tour. They regularly update their tour schedules on their Instagram account.
The best time to hike Alakul is between early July and the end of September. Before hiking, make sure you check the weather situation, rent trek poles, and book a yurt camp in advance at the Eco Tour Info Center. Address; F9VV+3X6, Karakol, Kyrgyzstan. Phone: +996 773 725 030
You can rent a shared taxi to take you to the first bridge in Karakol Park. It will save you a few hours of hiking on the way to Sirota Camp. Contact Jalil at +996 551 932 681
EXPENSES BREAKDOWN:
E-Visa (online) | P2,941 |
Food (meals, snacks, drinks) | P6,340 |
Accommodation (1 night in Bishkek, 2 nights in Karakol) | P3,144 |
Transportation (shared taxi, taxi, bus) | P4,262 |
Museum entrance fees | P200 |
Others (toiletries, toilet fees, laundry, etc) | P1,144 |
Song Kul private car tour (2 days with food and yurt stay) | P10,815 |
Overnight room in Kyzart (with dinner & breakfast) | P2,000 |
Karakol tour (2 days) | P3,783 |
Yurt stay in Sirota camp (with dinner & breakfast) | P2,335 |
Dorm room in Altyn Arashan (with dinner & breakfast) | P1,338 |
Horse ride to Altyn Arashan (2.5hrs) | P1,000 |
Trek pole rental (with damage fee) | P673 |
TOTAL: P39,975
I could have saved more on transportation if I had tried hitchhiking. I was planning on doing this but I worried that I wouldn't have enough time to wait. It was also difficult to translate Kyrgyz via Google Translate.
I tried looking for Couchsurfing hosts in Karakol but I got no responses. There were more available hosts in Bishkek.
The horse-riding tours were cheaper than the car but I was not confident in my horse-riding skills. Plus Boke gave me a discount so I just chose to go by car. Looking back, I thought I would have enjoyed the scenery more if I had walked. The roads were relatively flat and it was difficult to get lost. But it would take me 2 days before reaching the camp if ever.
On the way to Alakul, I saw some hikers who brought and set up their own tents. This could save you money on yurt stays but you have to carry a heavier load while hiking.
Check out my Kazakshastan adventure in my previous post.
Check out my Uzbekistan adventure in my next post.
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