Having already visited all the mountains and lakes, I opted to change things up by adding a trip to Uzbekistan, just a bus ride away from Bishkek, and known for its affordability. I was excited to witness firsthand the breathtaking architectural wonders that I had only seen in online photos.
TASHKENT The intense heat greeted me upon my arrival in Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan. Originally planning to spend just one day here, my plans changed when I discovered there were no available trains to Khiva that evening, leaving me with no option but to extend my stay to two days.
Unlike Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, I observed that accommodation in Uzbekistan tends to be pricier. I stayed in Hotel Uzbekistan due to its proximity to the city center. I didn't mind exceeding my usual budget for lodging since I had been sleeping in hostels for the past few weeks.
Hotel Uzbekistan, a few meters away from Amir Temur Square
I spent most of the first day at the hotel and only began to explore the city on the second day. It felt as if I was just simply ticking off items from my itinerary.
Minor Mosque, Hazrati Imama Complex, Kolkadash Madarasah
Before catching the train to Khiva, I made a quick visit to Magic City, an exciting and lively theme park in Tashkent. I had heard that it was more enjoyable to explore in the evening, but unfortunately, I didn't have enough time to do so.
That night, I was surprised when I discovered that I had reserved a Russian-style sleeper train to Khiva. Unlike the cleaner and more modern trains in Uzbekistan, this one was hot and somewhat cramped. Additionally, my seat was on the upper bunk, making it difficult to move around.
KHIVA
After spending 15 hours on the train, I finally reached Khiva (or so I thought). However, the train stopped in Urgench, and I was informed that it would take an additional 40 minutes to get to Khiva. Unfortunately, there was no Yandex Go service in Urgench, so I had to haggle with taxi drivers. I ended up sharing a taxi with a local who spoke English. Once again, I found myself being rescued by English speakers in a country where nobody speaks English.
Upon arriving at Khiva's Ichan Kala in the scorching afternoon heat (exceeding 40 degrees Celsius), I sought refuge in a nearby restaurant to wait and cool off.
Exploring Ichan Kala is free of charge, except for the madrassahs or mausoleums which require an entry ticket. Rather than purchasing a ticket, I opted to hire a tour guide who provided detailed insights into the history of the whole area. She shared captivating tales about the Khan and his wives, the ancient religious customs, and the Silk Road.
Despite its centuries-old origins, the site has been meticulously preserved and the restoration work has transformed it into a stunning miniature city museum. Every corner I turned revealed a breathtaking masterpiece.
Upon my return in the evening, I wanted to observe how the structures appeared at night. The view was enhanced and the weather was more bearable.
That evening, no trains were heading to my next stop, Bukhara, so I opted to arrange for a private car instead. I found the driver's information on the Uzbekistan Couchsurfing Telegram group. Initially, I was offered a reduced fare as it was meant to be a shared taxi, but the other passenger canceled. The driver's generosity led me to pay the original price without requesting a discount.
At that instant, I realized that I prefer not to identify myself as a budget traveler whenever interacting with local drivers and tour operators striving to make a living. I feel bad when asking for too many discounts. Instead, I would opt to be a mid-range traveler, enabling me to support and assist local communities in other countries.
BUKHARA
After a 7-hour drive during which I attempted to sleep in the back of the car, I finally arrived in Bukhara, my favorite among all the places I explored in Uzbekistan. This city exuded the most ancient charm to me. Although small in size, it can be easily explored in one day.
I did not have to travel far from my hostel to see the ancient wonders of Bukhara.
The Ark of Bukhara is a massive fortress that was initially built and occupied around the 5th century.
Kalon Tower - day vs night view
Mir-I-Arab Madarasa - day vs night view
I met a Korean tourist at the hostel where I was staying. Throughout the day, we remained at the hostel and only went out before noon and after 5:00 in the afternoon to escape the intense heat. While having dinner, he told me about the rising cost of living in Korea, so he eventually chose to travel the world instead.
Two days were more than enough to explore Bukhara. I bought an early morning (5:30) train ticket to Samarkand but unfortunately, I missed it! I learned that the trains here leave on time and sometimes a bit earlier than scheduled. The good thing was they still refunded 75% of my train ticket cost.
While riding in the shared taxi, a passenger who used to work for the tourist department in the country expressed dissatisfaction with the train stations being situated farther away in Uzbekistan compared to the closer proximity of the airports. When the car stopped for breakfast, he paid for my meal because he considered me a "guest."
Meeting kind people on the road has made me feel lucky. Reflecting on this experience, I wonder if I would extend the same level of generosity and assistance to a lost traveler in my own country.
SAMARKAND
After a 4-hour drive from Bukhara, we arrived in Samarkand, Uzbekistan's most famous city.
I was greeted by these vendors of circular loaves of bread by the roadside. I have also seen these breads in the streets of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan.
Tandyr Nan or Uzbek bread may be visually attractive, but it is essentially a plain and simple type of bread.
I spent two days exploring Samarkand, concentrating on a few main attractions. I had a long list of places to visit, but I decided to minimize my exposure to the hot weather.
If you only have one day to visit Uzbekistan, make sure to visit The Registan Square. It is home to three magnificent tiled buildings that are considered some of the oldest surviving madrassas (Islamic schools) in the world.
The Registan Square
Inside the Madarassahs in Registan
To fully appreciate Uzbekistan's cultural riches and stunning architecture, it is advisable to schedule your trip during spring (April to May) or autumn (September to early November).
Acquainting yourself with the nation's history beforehand can further enrich your exploration beyond just seeing the sights.
Check out my Kyrgyztsan adventure in my previous post.
Check out my Kazakhstan adventure in my previous post.
TRAVEL TIPS
Google Maps is effective in the major cities of Uzbekistan.
Yandex Go is still useful for city navigation, except in Khiva where it is unavailable. Opting for shared taxis instead of private ones can lead to greater savings.
For train travel, it is advisable to secure your tickets in advance through Uzbekistan Railways. Ensure you arrive at the station at least 30 minutes before your scheduled departure. Afrosiyab trains offer enhanced comfort and cleanliness.
Some ATMs in Uzbekistan do not accept 4-digit PIN codes. The modern, green-colored ATMs are compatible with 6-digit PIN codes.
Book your accommodation within or near the city center. Even if the price of the hostel is a bit higher, it will lead to increased savings in terms of time and money.
EXPENSES BREAKDOWN
Transportation (bus, train, shared taxi, taxi) | P8,591 |
Accommodation (hotel, hostels) | P4,644 |
Food (meals, snacks, drinks) | P4,565 |
Tour guide in Khiva (40-minutes) | P1,500 |
Entrance fees to museums and sites | P1,277 |
Others (toiletries, toilet fees, etc) | P324 |
Tips | P400 |
Total: P22,542
Although Uzbekistan is generally an affordable country, my expenses were higher due to visiting four cities as a tourist. But if I hadn't missed my train to Samarkand and if I had taken a train to Bukhara, I could have saved on transportation expenses.
Yandex Go offers affordable rides, with fares typically ranging from P30-70 for trips lasting 7-15 minutes. It was useful, especially when I wanted to avoid walking in the sun.
I could have saved on accommodation if I had stayed in a hostel instead of Hotel Uzbekistan in Tashkent. I also tried to find Couchsurfing hosts, but my requests were submitted too late for them to accept me.
Because of the extreme heat, I would often purchase cold beverages (priced at P40-50 per bottle) around 3-4 times a day. Bottled juice and water can be easily found on almost every street corner.
The P1,500 tour guide I hired in Khiva turned out to be quite costly. Later on, I discovered more affordable options online that included a full day of guided tour.
In almost every site I visited, I was asked to pay an entrance fee ranging from P70 to P200 per ticket. I typically used my credit card since they had POS machines on hand.
There is only one coffee shop at the airport in Tashkent, with no other dining options available. It's advisable to purchase your food in the city rather than eating at the airport.
Check out my Kyrgyztsan adventure in my previous post.
Check out my Kazakhstan adventure in my previous post.
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